Around here, at offManhattan, Earth Day is a year-round mantra that we try and live by, not merely a daylong change of habits. So encourage your children to start on the green path, with earth-friendly habits that will last a lifetime. You will set the right example when you travel to your next vacation destination without a car.

oM readers are already familiar with Woodloch Pines and Skytop Lodge, both terrific choices for your family’s next holiday. Here are five more options in the Northeast, from Mount Tremper to Maine—free lobster dinners and free camp— that promise fun for kids and parents while respecting that most important parent, Mother Earth.

1. Samoset Resort | Rockport, Maine | samosetresort.com

Why Find Family Time Here: If you’ve never experienced summer camp in Maine, this is your chance.
At least the breathtaking views of Penobscot Bay alone will feel like a vacation at this classic New England resort.  It is steeped in long established traditions that are sure to delight the entire family. In July and August, kids ages 5-12 may register for Sam-O-Camp, six days per week, from 9 am-12 pm, and five evenings per week from 5:30-8:30 pm. Swimming, nature walks, arts and crafts, science projects, cooking and other traditional camp activities will keep kids entertained and happy. That frees you up to enjoy tennis, golf or a group exercise class at the fitness center. If the brisk ocean water is a mite frosty for your constitution, the new infinity pool is heated, and the indoor pool is perfect for rainy day fun.

In the afternoon, the entire family can reunite for lunch and gorgeous vistas from your table at the casual Breakwater Café. The seafood couldn’t be any fresher, with steamed Maine mussels, New England clam chowder and a lobster club sandwich highlighting the menu. For our money, the Samoset is the perfect blend of adult-only and family time.
Don’t miss the opportunity to dine at the old-world, elegant yet understated Marcel’s, where the menu is a throwback to an earlier era, with choices like Steak Diane and Chateaubriand, presented tableside, of course. Kids are warmly welcomed at each of Samoset’s four dining options.

Kiddie Deets: Kids 18 and under stay free in their parents room. Sam-O-Camp is free, unless there is a cost associated with the specific activity. Check the hotel website for special deals. The promo code DATE should give you a free Lobster Dinner for two, including homemade blueberry pie. This early season special is good until June 30th.  Nightly rates start at $179 per room.

How to get there: Now that the Megabus goes to South Station, connecting on to the far reaches of New England is a lot easier. From Boston’s South Station transfer to Concord Trailways to Rockland’s Maine State Ferry Terminal stop.  It is a scenic, four-hour ride up the coast. Concord Trailways provides you with free kid-approved snacks and water on board, so you should be able to satiate the kids. The Samoset will be happy to pick you up at the bus stop, just give them a few days advance notice (220 Warrenton Street, 207.594.2511)

2. Doral Arrowwood | Rye Brook, NY | doralarrowwood.com

Why Find Family Time Here: Clocking in under an hour door-to-door, getting to Arrowwood for New Yorkers is a breeze. Holiday weekends are particularly colorful here, with non-stop activities for the whole family. Keen to partake in a hula-hoop contest, cookie decorating, or a group tennis lesson, capped off by a poolside dive-in movie in the evening? You have come to the right place. All of these activities and many more are included in the hotel’s low rate. Don’t forget karaoke, golf clinics and Casino Night. Just don’t come here looking for peace and quiet, because none is to be found. But if you are looking for a great indoor-outdoor pool full of tiny splashers, friendly folk and lots of activities, this will be your manna. Your kids will be having so much fun with scores of like-minded mini fun-seeker’s, you may not be able to drag them off the bouncy castle and into bed.

Kiddie Deets: Kids 16 and under are free in a room with their parents. Memorial Day weekend rates for room and a bountiful breakfast buffet start at $179 for the first night, add a night for just $99. With prices this low, you can splurge on the Saturday Night Dinner Dance, fun for the whole family.

How to get there: Metro-North’s New Haven Line to Port Chester. The hotel is running a free shuttle service from the station on holiday weekends, call and check for times. (Doral Arrowwood Resort, 975 Anderson Hill Road, Rye Brook, NY, 914.939.5500)

3. Emerson Spa and Resort | Mount Tremper, NY | emersonplace.com

Why Find Family Time Here: Hello, tranquility. From Buddhas to mountain biking, this is the perfect place to relax en famille. There are no organized activities here, but with the majestic Catskills as your playground, you and the kids will never be bored. Surrounded by tall pines is the family-friendly, Adirondack-style Lodge. The Lodge has a variety of room configurations that balance the importance of both family togetherness and privacy. When the sound of the rushing river (or the 32-inch flat screen TV) has lulled junior to sleep, your moonlit private porch is a lovely place to enjoy a glass of wine. With your choice of two restaurants on-premises as well as the Spa Café and Country Store, you won’t go hungry.  The Catamount Restaurant has a bargain priced kid’s menu and good, simple fare.  Splurge on a sitter that the hotel will provide with advance notice ($15 per hour) and spend a few adult-only hours in the spa. Treat the lucky tween in your life to a mini-mani-pedi at the salon, and you may be showered with gratitude.

The Emerson is home to the world’s largest kaleidoscope, and as hotel guests, you can all step inside, lie down, and enjoy the Woodstock-like vibe of the show free of charge. It is a sure-fire hit with kids, and it may take you back to the laser rock days of your youth, in a weirdly wholesome way.

Kiddie Deets: The Family Fun Package starts at $692 for a two night stay, including tax and gratuities. It includes two-nights accommodations in a junior luxury or family suite, two dinners for two adults and two kids at the Catamount Restaurant, daily Continental breakfast and kaleidoscopes for the kids to take home.

How to get there: Adirondack Trailways from Port Authority to Kingston, is a two-hour ride. Not all Kingston bound buses continue on to Mount Tremper, so check when you purchase your ticket. The driver will drop you off at the Emerson upon request. (5340 Route 28, Mount Tremper, NY, 877.688.2828)

4. Vanderbilt Hall | Newport, RI | vanderbilthall.com

Why Find Family Time Here: Vanderbilt Hall is as close as you can get to true old world elegance, without bringing your passport. Though clearly not a “feet on the table, strollers in the lobby” type of place, the hotel has an intimate, house party atmosphere that will suit some well-behaved mini-me’s. A visit to Vanderbilt Hall feels like you have your very own eccentric billionaire Uncle who has invited you to stay. The hotel’s interior is adorned with owner Peter de Savary’s (the world-renowned yachtsman and philanthropist) unique private museum collection of original American Illustration Art, which may appeal to young comic book and graphic novel fans. Monty, de Savary’s adorable, prize-winning Chihuahua, has full reign of the hotel, which should amuse young and old alike. 33 luxurious suites, a top-notch spa, and the Atlantic Ocean round out the picture. Vanderbilt Hall is located in a calm spot right in the center of pedestrian-friendly, quaint yet chic Historic Newport, the perfect location to explore the town’s great shopping and dining opportunities.

Kiddie Deets: Up to two children age 10 and under stay in-room with their parents for an additional $50 per night, per child. Clearly, exclusivity of this sort doesn’t come cheaply.  Room rates start at $350 in season, topping off at $1,600 for the most palatial suite.

How to get there: If you have a yacht, sail to Newport, a fitting way to arrive at Vanderbilt Hall. Otherwise, take the Bonanza bus to Providence from Port Authority or an Amtrak train from Penn Station. Once in Providence, you can hop bus number 60 run by RIPTA from Kennedy Plaza towards Newport. Get off after about 1h10m ride at the last stop at Newport Gateway Center at 23 America’s Cup Avenue. If the Providence-Newport Water Taxi is running, by sea is a more enjoyable way to go. If you want to arrive in style, Vanderbilt Hall can also arrange for limo service from Providence to Newport for between $100-150, depending on the date and time. For more details on Newport, visit gonewport.com (41 Mary Street, 401.846.6200)

5. Great Wolf Lodge | Pocono Mountains, PA. | greatwolf.com

Why Find Family Time Here: A visit to Great Wolf Lodge is for the kids, or the kid in you. This is not the place to come and sit on the sidelines with a good novel. The centerpiece of this hotel is a massive indoor Water Park, offering thrills for every age group. Get with the program, which is wet, noisy and fun. Daredevils measuring in at over 48 inches in height will want to give the new Double Barrel Drop waterslide,with its six-story descent, a try.  Younger children and less adventurous parents can splash in the wave pool or meander down the lazy river ride in an inner tube.

The Lodge has a variety of kid-friendly, fast food-type dining options, but parents will find palatable choices, including a well-stocked salad bar. The 401 rooms are created with families in mind, with 12 different whimsical configurations that sleep four to eight guests. If your kids do accept drying-off, the hotel offers an arcade, a Kid Spa, a Saturday night DJ Dance Party, and nightly bedtime stories in the lobby. Great Wolf Lodge strives to be environmentally friendly, and is Green Seal Certified. Kids can learn practical ways to conserve energy through an Energy Exploration display.

Kiddie Deets: June rates start at $240 nightly, based on a family of four. Room rates include full access to the Water Park. If the kids do exit the water, be prepared to pay for tempting extras, like an ice cream-themed manicure and MagiQuest, a live action, role-playing game, that will be a hit with Harry Potter fans.

How to get there: Martz Trailways from Port Authority to Mount Pocono, Pennsylvania gets you there in two hours. The bus station is approximately six miles from Great Wolf Lodge. Mountain Taxi is a reliable service and will get you to the Lodge in under 10 minutes for around $12; 570.839.2222. (100 Scotrun Ave., Scotrun, PA.866.958.9653)

By now, the Callery Pear trees are arching their white blossoms over the streets, and coffee cups are clinking back down into saucers on the sidewalks of New York City. You love this town. Still, this is the year you’re going to enjoy spring or the next season in a distinctly different setting.

Perhaps you’re considering an adventurous outing with a non-profit organization?

Since 1901, the Sierra Club has established itself as a trailblazer in responsible travel. Whether you’re interested in preserving a historic mansion in an outer borough, or trekking in Upper Dolpo, Nepal for a month, there are over 300 stellar trips—186 of which are under $1,000—to choose from.

“If people in general could be got into the woods, even for once, to hear the trees speak for themselves, all difficulties in the way of forest preservation would vanish,” said Sierra Club founder, John Muir. While we avid travelers do often return home with spectacular photographs and great dinner party fodder, the bulk of these trips—though good stimulants to the local economy—tend to serve a self-indulgent purpose rather than an altruistic one.

On a Sierra Club outing, you are not only seizing the moment on an all-inclusive eco vacation, but you are taking part in Muir’s incredible legacy. Think of it as an unofficial minor degree in environmental studies as you listen to the experts discuss the issues effecting a habitat and get hands-on while restoring a bird sanctuary or national park trails. “When I’m on a Sierra Club outing, I am not a ‘tourist’ but an explorer,” says outing enthusiast Audrey Gilliat. “I have had an experience probably 90% of vacationers will never have; I return understanding and respecting where I’ve been and am glad to be able to share it with new friends.”

Northeast Outings
If you’re working within a tight travel budget (trips start at $295) or are looking for a quick getaway near NYC, there are plenty of adventure outings to fit your interests. Combine Broadway shows with beautifying Riverside Park and a conservationist speaking engagement on the New York Parks Service outing, or prune 60 overgrown acres at Historic Bartow-Pell mansion in Pelham Bay Park in the Bronx. “Our trips have been widely recognized for following high standards in sustainability,” said Tony Rango, national outings program director.

When was the last time you spent two full days above the tree line? On the Hut to Hut in the White Mountains outing, you’ll traverse one of the country’s oldest hiking trails, go fishing, eat gourmet meals, and take a boat ride across Fontana Lake in New Hampshire. Four hours from Manhattan, the Newport, Rhode Island Habitat Restoration outing will have you restoring a wildlife habitat and later enjoying the famous Cliff Walk.

Trips for Thrill-Seekers
From exploring glaciers and scouting for bears in Alaska’s Mt. Denali National Park to a Women’s Beginner Backpack outing through Comanche Peak Wilderness in Colorado to a Yoga and Hiking retreat in the Redwoods of Marin County, California, the Sierra Club knows how to create rewarding, adrenaline-pumping adventures in just about every region of the U.S. There are also a slew of wonderful family outings to choose from; take the kids rafting on the Hudson in New York’s Adirondack Park during the Family Week of Rivers and Lakes outing or to Maine’s Acadia National Park for a journey across rocky beaches, lighthouses, mountains, and a remote ocean-sculpted island. One outing participant Peg Wolfe, who recently returned from a service project in Florida’s Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge, said, “I took away a really fun experience full of hard dirty work, great food, lots of camaraderie with intelligent conversation, friends for life, and an exhilarating feeling that I had truly enjoyed Florida in her natural state—it was great to be able to work towards the preservation of it.”

If for you, an escape into nature is a morning spent biking around Central Park. . . well, what are you waiting for?

To find more information on these national trips and how to register, go to outings.sierraclub.org/national. If you’re interested in experiencing an international adventure outing in places like Costa Rica or Tanzania, click here. To learn about becoming a member of the Sierra Club—the annual fee is only $15 and you’ll receive a cool Sierra Club Rucksack—visit the member center.

Uncompaghre National Forest, CO. Photo by Terri Felton.

Bonnie & Michelle on a Yosemite outing. Photo by Roger Williams

North Cascades, WA. Photo by Sascha Paris

Lake Crescent, Olympic NP, WA. Photo by Ann Daigle

Family Outing in Tahoe National Forest, CA. Photo by Jane Risk

A Salamander joining the Mt. Agamenticus service outing in Maine. Photo by Robin Kerr

Mt. Agamenticus service, ME. Photo by Robin Kerr

Trash removal by kayak in Lake Fontana, NC. Photo by Rebecca Dameron

Cycling the Historic Katy Trail, MO. Photo by Paul Minkus

Kayaking in Florida. Photo by Greg Pflug

Outing in Alaska

A Sierra Club group: Trail building in Nantahala National Forest, NC. Photo by Rebecca Dameron

In his timeless essay, “Once More to the Lake,” E.B. White recalled the “peace and goodness and jollity” of the Belgrade Lakes in Maine. His words still ring true for this author who spent good portions of her childhood summers there at camp, learning to windsurf and hit the bull’s eye with a rifle. Returning to the lakes this fall, no longer concerned with boy cooties and saltine eating contests, I found that in addition to the adventure-filled outdoors there is an entire adult playground in town worth visiting during any season, as E.B. also discovered: the general store and cafés, the charming Bed & Breakfasts, hikes, pristine bodies of water, and those fresh lobster feasts.

Get yourself a lay of the land
“Maine is one of the most beautiful states in the Union, and Belgrade is one of the most beautiful of the lakes of Maine,” wrote E.B. White in his “Pamphlet on Belgrade Lake (1914).” “This wonderful lake is five miles wide, and about ten miles long, with many coves, points and islands. It is one of a series of lakes, which are connected with each other by little streams. One of these streams is several miles long and deep enough so that it affords an opportunity for a fine all-day canoe trip.”

Central Maine’s premier lake area for recreation, Belgrade Lakes is located just an hour from the coast and from various mountain ranges. Great Pond (not to be missed) is the largest of the Belgrade Lakes—a watershed containing 14 lakes and over 5,000 acres of conservation land.

Your own cabin near the woods
“There were cottages sprinkled around the shores, and it was in farming although the shores of the lake were quite heavily wooded.” –E.B. White

Belgrade Lakes Four-Season Cottages | belgradecottages.com | 207.495.9217 | Daily rates start at $125
Situated on 8,500-acre Great Pond, the six cozy and traditional Maine “camps” are within a short cast’s distance from fishing for Northern Pike, Small Mouth Bass, and Brown Trout.

Among the Lakes B & B | amongthelakes.com | 207.465.4900 | Double occupancy begins at $145
Camp Runoia alums, Polly Beatie, and Sandy Famous, own and operate this beautiful white B&B in North Belgrade.

Belgrade Lakes House B&B | belgradelakeshouse.com | 207.495.2786 | Rates start at $135 per room
Conveniently located in Belgrade Lakes, this B&B offers comfortable lodging in a classic 1843 home, overlooking the picturesque Long Lake where boating and fishing (and swimming in the warmer months) are readily available.

Food even better than the Mess Hall
“Up to the farmhouse to dinner…There was a choice of pie for dessert, and one was blueberry and one was apple.” – E.B. White

Splurge: Revel in a five-course prix-fixe meal at Wings Hill Inn and Restaurant, which includes an appetizer, soup, salad,  entrée, dessert, and homemade baguettes. Priced at $55 per person, this intimate dinner will be prepared for you by the innkeepers, a husband-and-wife team who met at culinary school. The restaurant (that is part of the inn) but open to the public with advanced reservations) serves locally grown and raised food whenever possible and has a BYOB policy. The most popular recipes are posted on the site for those interested in bringing a piece of Belgrade home.

For a local bite: Head over to The Tavern at The Village Inn for tasty grilled flat bread pizzas, lobster crepes, and sirloin burgers (only $8.95). To be reminded that you’re not in New York anymore, slurp down some thick New England Clam Chowder or savor the plumpest Maine Lobster Crab Cakes, while watching the mallard ducks quacking out on the pond. Dinner hours are 5pm-9pm, and you’ll need to call ahead for reservations.

Stop in for lunch: The Lazy Lab Cafe, just up the street from the post office and next to the Enchanted Swan and Antique shop, is the perfect place to stop in for a bite mid-day. Serving great coffee, cappuccino, lattes, smoothies, sandwiches and salads for lunch, the Lazy Lab also has warm pastries and muffins for breakfast, High-speed Internet access, and stock of wonderful old books to cuddle up with in the colder months.

Snack: A trip to Belgrade Lakes is simply incomplete without a visit to Day’s General Store. Pick up a few snacks in the afternoon, or for the late night munchies; you can find almost anything here—from live lobsters to delicious fresh-baked doughnuts—in this brown house-cum-general store.

Hikes, hikes, and more hikes
Mount Phillip: Jump on the “Hemlock Trail/Bradley” and wander up the trail to enjoy lovely views of Great Pond (where later in the day/weekend you’ll enjoy swimming, canoeing, and maybe a spot of fishing as well). Take a 5-6 minute taxi from town, or bike there in about 20 minutes. It is about 20 minutes to the summit.

French Mountain: This hike is in Rome, Maine, just about a quick taxi ride from town. You follow the signs to the Rome Strawberry Patch. It will only take about 15 minutes to summit, and when you do, the views at the top span Whittier Pond, Long Pond, the village, and Great Pond. Wings Hill Inn has a great listing of the local, moderate hikes and scenic overlooks as well.

Boating
Arrange to go (ice) fishing, rent a boat, sea kayak, or canoe, and call Whisperwood Lodges & Cottages for great guided trips around the lakes.

How to get there: Bus or train it to Boston. Depending on your budget, Amtrak is an easy, quick option; BOLT Bus is a cheap alternative and takes approximately 4 hours total travel time. From Boston’s South Station, take the Greyhound Bus from Boston to Augusta, ME (approx. 3 hours travel time). Taxi, or arrange pick-up from your accommodations, about 15 miles up the road from Augusta to the town of Belgrade Lakes. It may be a longer trip ‘off Manhattan,’ but it is worth it for the cleanest lakes, fresh mountain air, and that carefree feeling of escape. Bring or rent a bike to toodle around town during your stay.

“The arriving had been so big a business in itself, at the railway station the farm wagon drawn up, the first smell of the pine-laden air, the first glimpse of the smiling farmer, and the great importance of the trunks and your father’s enormous authority in such matters, and the feel of the wagon under you for the long ten-mile haul, and at the top of the last long hill catching the first view of the lake after eleven months of not seeing this cherished body of water.” – E.B. White

Entering Belgrade

Begrade Lakes, ME

Canoeing on Belgrade Lakes, photo by SilverTab1

Camp Runoia, photo courtesy of Camp Runoia Archives

Fishing on Belgrade Lakes

Belgrade Lakes

Climbing Mount Phillips

Belgrade Lakes

Day's General Store

Wings Hill Inn guest room

Among the Lakes B&B

Lazy Lab Cafe

The sudden chill in the air may signify summer is really over, but that doesn’t mean you need to cross Northeastern beaches and coastlines off the vacation list until next year. And if your sights are set on witnessing nature’s great fiery conversion beyond Central Park, there are few places more wondrous and worth the trek in fall than woodsy Cape Elizabeth, a quiet coastal hamlet just five miles southeast of Portland, Maine.

Cape Elizabeth is a nature lover’s paradise, and the cozy Inn by the Sea encapsulates and protects all that is wonderful about the area. The 26-year-old property on Bowery Beach Road is a quintessential New England seaside building, with the exception of a recent multi-million dollar remodel that took it down to the studs, restoring all the charm along with a full eco-friendly design, from the dual-flush toilets to the Biofuel heating system. This is natural luxury at its finest, a charming property that encompasses a mile of private, unspoiled beach and five acres of indigenous gardens certified as a wildlife habitat.

The inn’s motto is “Preserve, Protect and Inspire,” and everything about it does just that. At Sea Glass, the inn’s restaurant that looks out at the picturesque lawn with views of the Atlantic beyond, Executive Chef Mitchell Kaldrovich turns out simple but sensational dishes using only the freshest of ingredients. He spent his first months in Maine making the circuit to farms and fish markets to ensure that the restaurant stays local and sustainable; he has partnerships with everyone from farmers to mushroom foragers and one can taste the freshness in every vibrant, delicious dish. Equally luxurious—and sustainable—is the state of the art Leed-certified Spa and the Inn by the Sea, with its recycled floors, chemical-free products and full menu of natural and maritime-inspired treatments.

But the star of this green inn (whose traditional guest room rates begin at $299/night) is the natural setting it does so much to protect. Just a short walk down a lush, private boardwalk is a beautiful expanse of New England beach, and even closer to home are the colorful, all-local gardens that provide a habitat for a variety of species—including the endangered Monarch butterfly (the inn is a certified Monarch way station). Guests of all ages are invited to stroll the grounds or partake in the larger, more organized inn events. For the little ones, fun events like the “Bug’s Life Tour” introduce the environment and eco-friendly practices in exciting and interactive ways, and for their parents, classes are available on planting indigenous gardens or zero waste corporate seminars. The whole family can get in on the action with seasonal events from beach cleanings to pumpkin carvings.

Maine To-Do’s
Less then a mile from the inn is the Great Pond, the area’s largest wetland and a lovely spot for a leisurely hike through diverse flora and fauna—keep your eyes peeled for beaver dams. Also nearby is the Audubon preserve and the historic Fort Williams Park, home to grassy rolling hills, a 19th century military fortification, and Portland Headlight, the oldest lighthouse in the state.

Portland itself is a wealth of food and shops, and just a 20-minute cab ride away. But the Inn offers much to do, whether it be relaxing on the lawn or roasting marshmallows by the fire in the evenings. There’s likely no better way to usher in the chill than with one last trip to the sea. .  .

Fall Fun and Freebies
If you’re in that orange October mood, Inn by the Sea has a slew of fall events (we forgot to mention a bocce court and fire pits too) that make it a great excuse for any pre-holiday getaway.

Harvest on the Harbor (October 22-24, 2009)
Portland’s three-day food festival is a premier foodie event with cooking demonstrations, food and wine tastings and much to learn about Portland’s expanding local food movement. Stay at Inn by the Sea in a cozy fireplace room and enjoy the Chef’s Harvest on the Harbor Tasting menu, plus a complimentary bottle of Maine-produced honey Mead. Packages start at $431 per night.

Carve Out a Great Getaway
It’s time again for the inn’s annual pumpkin carving contest. During the month of October, guests receive complimentary pumpkins and are invited to enter the carving contest. The inn supplies the carving tools, you supply the creativity, and if all goes well, at the end of the month the panel of Jack O’Lantern judges will choose a photo of your work of art as the winner, thereby making your trip free (all expenses of the winner’s stay are credited back). Packages start at $365 per night. For more information on this and other fall specials and packages, visit innbythesea.com.

How to get there: The Amtrak Downeaster runs from Boston’s South Station to Portland (2 hours, $24 each way). To get from New York to Boston take Amtrak from Penn Station to (approximately 4 hours, around $80 each way or $145 each way for the high speed Acela train). Fung Wah (139 Canal St., $15 each way) runs to Boston’s North station (transfer to South station via subway takes approximately 15 minutes) and Bolt Bus (34th St at 8th Ave., $20 each way) goes directly to South Station. Or consult our Boston Transportation Guide for more travel options. From the train station in Portland, a cab into Cape Elizabeth’s town takes approximately 30 minutes and costs around $30.

Portland Headlight

Inn By The Sea

Inn by the Sea

Inn by the Sea

Inn By The Sea Lobby

Inn by the Sea room

Fireplace Lounge, Inn by the Sea

Spa Waiting Room

At Inn by the Sea, a bag invitation to take your soap home rather than have it end up in a landfill.

Natural Preserve near Inn by the Sea

A beach steps away from Inn by the Sea

Boardwalk in Cape Elizabeth

Fort Williams Park

Fort Williams Park

Nature preserve in Cape Elizabeth

A trail by the Great Pond

Paella at Sea Glass restaurant

Sea Glass restaurant, table with a view

Portland, ME is a smallish city with an even smaller town feel, but within its compact size it packs a lot of punch. Whether you’re a sailor or a landlubber, an obsessive foodie or a strategic hunter of antiques and handmade treasures, Portland will keep you busy (and maybe even a little overwhelmed) however long you choose to visit. And despite all you may want to cram into a weekend, the best way to enjoy Portland is to take it slow: savoring the food, lingering over the beautiful wares, and sauntering rather than racing; this isn’t Manhattan.

Energizing
It starts with the morning coffee. In Portland, there is no quick toss-it-down-before-work coffee cart variety, only myriad meant to savor brews, which are all carefully roasted—a different blend for each café and hotel in town—by Coffee by Design. The micro-roastery is a community in every sense of the word, from its personal relationships with every bean supplier to its support of local artists.

Shopping
The logical next step after proper caffeination is the marathon perusing (and purchasing) of unique goods that is one of the main to-dos on a Portland trip. The narrow streets of Old Port contain carefully curated antique stores like the airy Judy Pascal Antiques and Interiors (6 Free St., 207.347.5633) and less organized but equally fascinating spots like Emerson Books, Antique Maps and Prints (18 Exchange St., 207.874.2665), a treasure trove for bibliophiles and collectors of papers of the yellowed variety.

The standout shop in Old Port is the bright and inviting 2 Note Perfumery (10 Moulton St., 207.838.2815), a true embodiment of the spirit of Portland. Proprietors Carolyn Mix and Darcy Doniger create natural body and elegantly fragrant home products that play off the ladies’ mutual love of music. Even if you’re not in the market for new scents, a trip to 2 Note will change your tune, and the ladies themselves—with their strong love of and knowledge about Portland—are equally inspiring.

Also not to miss is Rabelais (86 Middle St., 207.774.1044), home to all food-related books, from the latest tomes on food politics to the first edition of Julia Childs. Whether it’s a hard to find out-of-print or a glossy hardback jumping off the shelves, if it has to do with food, you’re likely to find it here. But the highlight, again, is the people: owners Don and Samantha Lindgren love to share their deep knowledge of the local food movements taking over Maine.

Eating
It’s no surprise that Portland has a bookstore devoted entirely to food; the streets are teeming with a host of delicious smells and flavors.

Fuel up for more shopping at Walter’s Café (15 Exchange St., 207.871.9258), a cozy brick-walled establishment known for their daily changing blackboard specials. Jeff Buerhaus makes magic in the kitchen fusing Asian, Caribbean, and Mediterranean influences with the freshest of seafood and locally sourced ingredients. The space is bright and friendly for the lunch crowd, with the fireplace and cozy upper level lending a swankier vibe for intimate dinners.

While Walter’s balances the beam between cozy and chic, Gritty McDuff’s (396 Fore St., 207.772.2739) is everything one could ever want from a place so named. The first brew pub in Maine has been around since prohibition, so it’s firmly established that dank beer smell that one hopes for in a historic watering hole. Regardless of how much you drink, you won’t soon forget the place with its random tchotchkes like heavy “Gritty’s Club” mugs that hang in neat rows above the dented copper bar and the bizarrely fabulous tinfoil creations set at odd intervals along the walls (made, of course, by Portland’s own “tinfoil man”). The brews are crisp and hoppy and are complemented by a buffalo burger.

With the wealth of gorgeous restaurants in town, dinner is a sacred event. Cinque Terre (36 Wharf St., 207.347.6154) is an upscale hideaway decorated with a sleek minimalist style. The daily changing menu maintains a few staple signature items, like a rigatoni Bolognese that will spoil you for Bolognese ever after. A large portion of the menu is in italics to mark those ingredients that come from local Maine purveyors—and the freshness is evident in every dish. The buttery brown roasted almond cake justly touted the talents of award-winning pastry chef Emily Delois and is a perfect way to the end the meal.

Just around the corner, sister restaurant Vignola (10 Dana St., 207.772.1330) is also helmed by chef Lee Skawinski, who applies lessons learned from generations of Italian farmers and chefs to both establishments, creating a blissful, educational experience for guests. The staff at both locations, many of whom have traveled with Skawinski to meet with vintners and cheese purveyors in Italy, are equally passionate about the food, and it shows. Vignola has a more casual laid-back feel than Cinque Terre, while still keeping a locally sourced focus on food. The spindly thin carpaccio topped with a tangy, perfect kobe beef tartare is a must, as is a glass of beer. The expert staff culls from 70-plus beers that hail from as near as Maine to as far as Sri Lanka, and arrive in the brand’s corresponding glass. The atmosphere here is electric with the buzz of happy foodies bouncing off the worn brick walls, the air smelling faintly of pizza dough.

Doing
There is much more to Portland than eating and shopping, and fortunately, much of it helps to burn off all that eating. A walk along the Eastern Promenade flanked by ocean on one side and a line of stunning historic mansions on the other, is a great way to watch the sunset. Winding back the clock, make an afternoon stop at the Portland Observatory (138 Congress St., 207.774.5561, last tour at 4:30 pm), a 202 year old lookout point that has survived 200 hurricanes and affords panoramic views of Portland and Casco Bay. Then continue heading toward the water for the Eastern Prom, stopping at the charming shops scattered along the way.

Venture to Peaks Island, a diminutive two-mile long isle, for its charming New England homes, craggy shores, and tucked away restaurants. The perimeter can be traversed by foot in an hour, but the best way to explore is by bike, which can be rented at Brad and Wyatts Bike Rental (Island Ave., 207.766.5631, $5 for one hour). The Casco Bay Ferry leaves just about every hour and takes 20 minutes (56 Commercial St., 207.774.7871 x105, $7.70 round trip).

Sleeping
The Eastland Park Hotel (157 High St., 207.775.5411) is an expansive, historic property with a feeling of old world opulence. Located in the arts district, it’s just steps from some of Portland’s best art galleries, as well as the Portland Museum of Art. The spacious rooms are decorated in watercolors, and the Top of the East is a great place for an evening tipple with fantastic views.

On the other end of town, the brand new Residence Inn Portland (145 Fore St., 207.761.1660) is as sleek and modern as the Eastland Park is historic. Decorated in crisp, artsy nautical photography and the signature Marriott bright colors, the hotel is comfortable and friendly, with comfortable suites, complementary breakfast and stellar views.

How to get there: The Amtrak Downeaster runs from Boston’s South Station to Portland (2 hours, $24 each way). To get from New York to Boston take Amtrak from Penn Station (approximately 4 hours, around $80 each way or $145 each way for the high speed Acela train). Fung Wah (139 Canal St., $15 each way) runs to Boston’s North station (transfer to South station via subway takes approximately 15 minutes) and Bolt Bus (34th St at 8th Ave., $20 each way) goes directly to South Station. From the train station in Portland, a cab into town takes approximately 15-20 minutes and costs around $20.

Casco Bay

Street vendors feature organic goods

Coffee By Design, photo by hint of plum

Standard Baking Co.'s berry treat

Portland Observatory View

Cinque Terre's Rigatoni - Tomatoes, radicchio, olives, salumi, herbs, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese $11/$17

Pasticcino al Rum, Warm Rum Glazed Spice Cake, Buttermilk Gelato, Brown Sugar Roasted Pineapple ($7.50)

Eli Phant boutique

Eli Phant

Eli Phant

Eli Phant, photo courtesy of the boutique

Gritty McDuff’s

Peaks Island

Peaks Island

Vignola's beef carpaccio ($10)

Walter's Cafe

View from Residence Inn

Judy Pascal Antiques

Harbor Fish Market

Harbor Fish Market

Top of the East lobster roll, courtesy of icebergprinciple

2Note

2Note

Sunset on Eastern Promenade