offManhattan

In his timeless essay, “Once More to the Lake,” E.B. White recalled the “peace and goodness and jollity” of the Belgrade Lakes in Maine. His words still ring true for this author who spent good portions of her childhood summers there at camp, learning to windsurf and hit the bull’s eye with a rifle. Returning to the lakes this fall, no longer concerned with boy cooties and saltine eating contests, I found that in addition to the adventure-filled outdoors there is an entire adult playground in town worth visiting during any season, as E.B. also discovered: the general store and cafés, the charming Bed & Breakfasts, hikes, pristine bodies of water, and those fresh lobster feasts.

The sudden chill in the air may signify summer is really over, but that doesn’t mean you need to cross Northeastern beaches and coastlines off the vacation list until next year. And if your sights are set on witnessing nature’s great fiery conversion beyond Central Park, there are few places more wondrous and worth the trek in fall than woodsy Cape Elizabeth, a quiet coastal hamlet just five miles southeast of Portland, Maine.

Portland, ME is a smallish city with an even smaller town feel, but within its compact size it packs a lot of punch. Whether you’re a sailor or a landlubber, an obsessive foodie or a strategic hunter of antiques and handmade treasures, Portland will keep you busy (and maybe even a little overwhelmed) however long you choose to visit. And despite all you may want to cram into a weekend, the best way to enjoy Portland is to take it slow: savoring the food, lingering over the beautiful wares, and sauntering rather than racing; this isn’t Manhattan.