
The sudden chill in the air may signify summer is really over, but that doesn’t mean you need to cross Northeastern beaches and coastlines off the vacation list until next year. And if your sights are set on witnessing nature’s great fiery conversion beyond Central Park, there are few places more wondrous and worth the trek in fall than woodsy Cape Elizabeth, a quiet coastal hamlet just five miles southeast of Portland, Maine.
Cape Elizabeth is a nature lover’s paradise, and the cozy Inn by the Sea encapsulates and protects all that is wonderful about the area. The 26-year-old property on Bowery Beach Road is a quintessential New England seaside building, with the exception of a recent multi-million dollar remodel that took it down to the studs, restoring all the charm along with a full eco-friendly design, from the dual-flush toilets to the Biofuel heating system. This is natural luxury at its finest, a charming property that encompasses a mile of private, unspoiled beach and five acres of indigenous gardens certified as a wildlife habitat.
The inn’s motto is “Preserve, Protect and Inspire,” and everything about it does just that. At Sea Glass, the inn’s restaurant that looks out at the picturesque lawn with views of the Atlantic beyond, Executive Chef Mitchell Kaldrovich turns out simple but sensational dishes using only the freshest of ingredients. He spent his first months in Maine making the circuit to farms and fish markets to ensure that the restaurant stays local and sustainable; he has partnerships with everyone from farmers to mushroom foragers and one can taste the freshness in every vibrant, delicious dish. Equally luxurious—and sustainable—is the state of the art Leed-certified Spa and the Inn by the Sea, with its recycled floors, chemical-free products and full menu of natural and maritime-inspired treatments.
But the star of this green inn (whose traditional guest room rates begin at $299/night) is the natural setting it does so much to protect. Just a short walk down a lush, private boardwalk is a beautiful expanse of New England beach, and even closer to home are the colorful, all-local gardens that provide a habitat for a variety of species—including the endangered Monarch butterfly (the inn is a certified Monarch way station). Guests of all ages are invited to stroll the grounds or partake in the larger, more organized inn events. For the little ones, fun events like the “Bug’s Life Tour” introduce the environment and eco-friendly practices in exciting and interactive ways, and for their parents, classes are available on planting indigenous gardens or zero waste corporate seminars. The whole family can get in on the action with seasonal events from beach cleanings to pumpkin carvings.
Maine To-Do’s
Less then a mile from the inn is the Great Pond, the area’s largest wetland and a lovely spot for a leisurely hike through diverse flora and fauna—keep your eyes peeled for beaver dams. Also nearby is the Audubon preserve and the historic Fort Williams Park, home to grassy rolling hills, a 19th century military fortification, and Portland Headlight, the oldest lighthouse in the state.
Portland itself is a wealth of food and shops, and just a 20-minute cab ride away. But the Inn offers much to do, whether it be relaxing on the lawn or roasting marshmallows by the fire in the evenings. There’s likely no better way to usher in the chill than with one last trip to the sea. . .
Fall Fun and Freebies
If you’re in that orange October mood, Inn by the Sea has a slew of fall events (we forgot to mention a bocce court and fire pits too) that make it a great excuse for any pre-holiday getaway.
Harvest on the Harbor (October 22-24, 2009)
Portland’s three-day food festival is a premier foodie event with cooking demonstrations, food and wine tastings and much to learn about Portland’s expanding local food movement. Stay at Inn by the Sea in a cozy fireplace room and enjoy the Chef’s Harvest on the Harbor Tasting menu, plus a complimentary bottle of Maine-produced honey Mead. Packages start at $431 per night.
Carve Out a Great Getaway
It’s time again for the inn’s annual pumpkin carving contest. During the month of October, guests receive complimentary pumpkins and are invited to enter the carving contest. The inn supplies the carving tools, you supply the creativity, and if all goes well, at the end of the month the panel of Jack O’Lantern judges will choose a photo of your work of art as the winner, thereby making your trip free (all expenses of the winner’s stay are credited back). Packages start at $365 per night. For more information on this and other fall specials and packages, visit innbythesea.com.
How to get there: The Amtrak Downeaster runs from Boston’s South Station to Portland (2 hours, $24 each way). To get from New York to Boston take Amtrak from Penn Station to (approximately 4 hours, around $80 each way or $145 each way for the high speed Acela train). Fung Wah (139 Canal St., $15 each way) runs to Boston’s North station (transfer to South station via subway takes approximately 15 minutes) and Bolt Bus (34th St at 8th Ave., $20 each way) goes directly to South Station. Or consult our Boston Transportation Guide for more travel options. From the train station in Portland, a cab into Cape Elizabeth’s town takes approximately 30 minutes and costs around $30.

Portland Headlight

Inn By The Sea

Inn by the Sea

Inn by the Sea

Inn By The Sea Lobby

Inn by the Sea room

Fireplace Lounge, Inn by the Sea

Spa Waiting Room

At Inn by the Sea, a bag invitation to take your soap home rather than have it end up in a landfill.

Natural Preserve near Inn by the Sea

A beach steps away from Inn by the Sea

Boardwalk in Cape Elizabeth

Fort Williams Park

Fort Williams Park

Nature preserve in Cape Elizabeth

A trail by the Great Pond

Paella at Sea Glass restaurant

Sea Glass restaurant, table with a view
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October 5th, 2009 at 11:01 am
Maine in October is definitely the best place to be. Thanks for that interesting article!
October 8th, 2009 at 8:20 pm
Fung Wah does go to South Station in Boston, correctly stated in Boston Transportation Guide
Depart: Chinatown New York, 139 Canal St.
Arrive: Arrives at South Station Bus Terminal, 700 Atlantic Ave. (gate 25)
October 16th, 2009 at 11:12 am
[...] On top of that, guests and participate in a whole array of fun yet educational events, like classes on planting native gardens or beach cleaning festivities, all that end with guests receiving milkweed seeds, to help expand the areas in which endangered Monarch butterflies lay their eggs. And all this is just the beginning. Read more about my trip here. [...]
October 18th, 2009 at 9:26 pm
[...] On top of that, guests can participate in a whole array of fun yet educational events, like classes on planting native gardens or beach cleaning festivities, all that end with guests receiving milkweed seeds, to help expand the areas in which endangered Monarch butterflies lay their eggs. And all this is just the beginning. Read more about my trip here. [...]
November 10th, 2009 at 1:50 pm
These pictures are so beautiful. I would love to take a trip like this, but I am not sure how affordable it would be? I am sure that if I look hard enough I can find some great deals! Thanks for sharing the fall fun and freebies especially!